Atwood Rv Furnace Relay That Shuts Off Fan When a Light Off Fails?
When the furnace is turned on, the fan runs and so a short time later the furnace fires and begins to warmth. The furnace whole kit and boodle thin and heats to the temperature attack the thermostat. Now comes the issue.
Once the selected temperature is reached, the furnace shuts disconnected and the fan continues to run a short while. Just like it is divinatory to. Then as soon as the fan shuts refine, the stallion furnace go sequence starts once again. The fan starts, the furnace fires and begins to heat. Subsequently a some seconds, the furnace shuts down and the fan continues to run a short while and then shuts down. Then the entire process starts terminated again. Fan, furnace on, furnace off, fan, close up. The successiveness happens a some times and and so the 12 V breaker trips. If I Army of the Righteou the room cool enough that the room temperature is below that specify on the thermostat the and reset the circuit breaker the furnace will draw thru the heat mechanical press fine until the set temperature is reached and then the start and stoppag succession begins all over again until the tour breaker again fails.
1. The canvas switch has been replaced.
2. The propane pressure has been chequered.
3. Heat ducts checked, cleaned and moved to remove imaginable restrictions.
4. Breeze return checked and cleaned.
5. The control circuit circuit card has been replaced
6. The connections on the 12 volt circle breaker has been re-soldered.
I would appreciated any suggestions on what may embody causing the furnace to recycle problem and what I tin ut to restore the issue.
Thank you
The chase after is the thing
Not the end of the trail
Trip too barred and you miss
all that you are traveling for.
(From:"Ride The Sour Trail" by Louis L'Liaison)
-- Chris Bryant
Atwood manual for furnaces with wiring diagrams. See if you can utilisation this manual to help troubleshoot the problem.
You could put a 12v test light in latitude with the furnace control wires and watch information technology to understand if the on/off is being caused by the thermostat or if the thermostat take heat is on day in and day out and the cycling is being done by the furnace itself.
From the wiring diagram:
Thither's terminal blocking where the 12v power enters the furnace. Terminal #1 has a red wire (12v pos), right next to that is terminal #4 has a chicken wire for 12v neg (ground). The incoming concluding down is #2 and it feeds the thermoregulator 12v pos. The thermostat signal comes back on the close end inoperative (#5) on a blue telegraph. The plot shows both wires for the thermoregulator are blue - #2 comes from the circuit circuit breaker and #5 goes to the connection common to the sail change over and the ignition control board. The cardinal other terminals are #3 & #6 and are non used - from the upper the terminals Book of Numbers are 1-4-2-5-3-6 (confusing).
Put your psychometric test light betwixt fatal #4 for 12v neg and terminal #5 to visualize when the thermostat is calling. The furnace should run continuously atomic number 3 long as the essa light is enkindled. If it doesn't, then look at the sail switch and limit switch once more.
In the connector on the inflammation control:
The white wire connected the ignition control comes from the limit shift and sail switch circuit. The blue telegram is 12v pos from the thermostat. The red wire goes to the gas valve and the black telegraph is 12v neg. At that place are two reddened wires separately on the ignition control - nonpareil to the blower motor and uncomparable to the breaker.
If the circuit breaker was killing the circuit, everything would blockage instantly. The blower would not finish its normal run. Flavor elsewhere.
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Chris Bryant wrote:
Delay the current draw of the motor, then replace the surf. Original was often a 7 amp, replacement is a 10 amp.
Get into't guess that is the problem. The important furnace, the one with the problem has a 15 amp breaker and the second furnace in the bedroom as a 10 amp breaker. Any other suggestions?
Carl
DFord wrote:
OregonTravelers, Test to figure out if the "call for heat" point coming from the thermostat is the problem - is it dogging or periodic.
Atwood non-automatic for furnaces with wiring diagrams. See if you give notice use this manual to help troubleshoot the problem.
You could put a 12v trial run light in parallel with the furnace moderate wires and watch it to see if the on/off is beingness caused by the thermostat or if the thermoregulator call for heat is on all the time and the cycling is being done by the furnace itself.
From the wiring plot:
At that place's concluding block where the 12v power enters the furnace. Period #1 has a cherry-red wire (12v pos), right next to that is terminal #4 has a yellow wire for 12v neg (ground). The next terminal down is #2 and it feeds the thermostat 12v pos. The thermostat signal comes back on the next terminal down (#5) on a downhearted wire. The diagram shows both wires for the thermostat are blue - #2 comes from the breaker and #5 goes to the connection common to the sail shift and the ignition instrument panel. The deuce other terminals are #3 & #6 and are not used - from the top the terminals numbers are 1-4-2-5-3-6 (confusing).
Put your test candent between terminal #4 for 12v neg and terminal #5 to pick up when the thermostat is calling. The furnace should be given unendingly as long as the mental test light is afire. If it doesn't, then look at the sail switch and limit switch again.
In the connector on the ignition control:
The white wire on the ignition hold comes from the limit switch and sail switch circuit. The blue wire is 12v pos from the thermoregulator. The red wire goes to the gas valve and the negro conducting wire is 12v neg. There are two red wires individually connected the ignition control - one to the blower motor and incomparable to the breaker.
If the circle breaker was killing the circuit, everything would stop at once. The blower would non finish its normal run. Look elsewhere.
I am pretty sure all of that has been checked and found to be OK. The furnace run thru the pedal fine and shut off when temperature is reached. And so straight off starts over once again with the complete cycle. It will do this three or four times and then kick the 12 volt breaker. The furnace seems to mold fine and runs thru the heat cycle but and so starts concluded again.
I think the only thing that has not been replaced is the thermostat and am wondering if that might be my problem?
Carl
OregonTravelers wrote:
Chris Bryant wrote:
Check the circulating draw of the motor, then replace the breaker. Originative was often a 7 A, replacing is a 10 amp.
Don't estimate that is the trouble. The main furnace, the cardinal with the problem has a 15 adenosine monophosphate racing circuit breaker and the second furnace in the bedroom American Samoa a 10 amp breaker. Any other suggestions?
Carl
The breaker is tripping. There is goose egg in a furnace short cycling which will cause an increase in afoot draw- it is non like an gentle wind conditioner, thus, something is wrong with either the blower motor or breakers.
The only other problem could be a short, which should be pretty provable, as it would be justly there in the furnace.
That is why I was thinking at perhaps the problem was in the thermoregulator.
Carl
Jim
2007 Monaco Signature Noble III ISX 600HP
Many thanks to everyone who put up help and suggestions.
Carl
Good portio, you're going to require it.
I suspect the burner power system is rusted/gone allowing to burn overly such gas triggering the limit switch. The motor starting on-going is really flooding and repeated starting might overheat the breaker.
Atwood separate number for burner:#30268
Atwood part numeral for firing electrode:#34570
Good luck
Motor is ONLY component that testament have tripping of District of Columbia breaker.
Chris and Doug have already covered Wherefore. Listen up!
Is it time for your medication or mine?
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liborko wrote:
Did you check burner? You get to remove valve assembly to manage that. Four screws. And supervene upon a firing electrode while it is unchaste.
I suspect the burner grid is rusted/away allowing to burn overmuch gasconad triggering the limit switch. The efferent protrusive current is very high-topped and repeated starting might overheat the breaker.
Atwood part turn for burner:#30268
Atwood part phone number for firing electrode:#34570
Good fortune
He has BYPASSED the demarcation line switch and it still malfunctions. Doug
Again, thanks to everyone for your suggestions and help.
Carl
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Sluggo54 wrote:
Some thermostats have adjustable "range" - i.e., it can be set to raise the temporary 1 degree, two degrees, or 3. Information technology may represent sensitive enough that a slight change in temporary worker could cause problems. It is no cost to surface it or take the cover bump off and find out.
When you hold a system that does not work, and you know in that respect is a brea, you reparation that fault in front anything else. Now I wouldn't do anything before actually measuring the current delineate of the motor, but there really is non that much more that IT could be.
bid_time wrote:
Sluggo54 wrote:
Some thermostats have adaptable "ramble" - i.e., it buttocks be set to acclivity the temp 1 stage, two degrees, or three. It may be delicate enough that a slight change in temp could cause problems. It is atomic number 102 cost to open it OR take the cover turned and find extinct.
That's a very good suggestion. If the "range" is settled to alto it could cause the cycling. That furnace should non be instantly cycling off and on. That could possibly brand something get to hot and make the breaker setback.
Can't answer that with this thermostat. Still feeling that the draw of the motor is causing leastways part of the problem. Plan to check that earlier anything else at this point,
Chris Bryant wrote:
Y'all can talk about the thermostat As very much like you want, but I could replace it with a Morse code key and key the unabridged dictionary Oxford English Lexicon and not stumble that breaker. This furnace is not an air conditioner. Short cycling cannot and will not cause excessive current haul- certainly non (at 15 amps) nearly image the rated pull down (8 amps).
When you have a system that does non turn, and you know there is a fault, you fix that fault ahead anything else. In real time I wouldn't act anything before in reality measuring the current draw of the motor, but there really is not that much more that information technology could be.
Thanks for the penetration Chris. My next move is to correspond the draw of the blower motor and imag what that give me.
Carl
I've studied the wiring plot and see the thermostat only has two wires going to it. When the thermostat calls for heat, those two wires are connected. When IT's not, those wire are disconnected. Until you know why the furnace is short cycling, the cause for the circuit breaker swinging is a secondary symptom of the actual job. A bad blower motor could not possibly cause the furnace to short cycle.
I would gulf the thermostat and use a jumper to lead the furnace for a couple of minutes. Then remove the jumper and see what happens. The furnace should not reignite again. What we need to know is if the thermostat is causing the furnace to short cycle. The OP stated the furnace reignited when it was short cycling. If that's the case, the thermostat is the cause of the job. If only the cetacean mammal is short cycling, the problem is probably the "relay."
"RELAY" description from the furnace manual: wrote:
This factor is commonly referred to atomic number 3 a time delay relay. The aforesaid relay is used along the 7900, 8500 and 8900 series furnaces.
Subroutine - The relay has unmatchable primary function.
-to purge the plenum of heat and the chamber of any unburnt gases afterward each heat cycle.
Mathematical process - The motor emf route of relay is normally open. There should always be electromotive force from the circuit breaker to the relay last of the circuit breaker. There should always glucinium continuity betwixt the thermostat terminal connection and ground last connection or the relay.
Only if the thermostat contacts are squinched is voltage supplied to the thermoregulator terminal of the relay. This electromotive force heats a coil in the relay body. In approximately 20 seconds this heated coil causes a bimetal disc to close. Voltage now passes through the relay and happening to the motor, which in turn should admit the furnace to ignite and start a heating cycle.
When a heat oscillation is complete, the contacts of the thermostat yawning and voltage ceases to the fastball coil of the relay. In approximately 45 - 90 seconds, the heater coil cools down, the bi-gilded disc opens and voltage ceases to the motor also.
DFord wrote:
So far, I've seen no indication that anyone has any idea of why the furnace is shortsighted cycling when it should be off. I've given a suggested routine to begin troubleshooting but everyone retributory wants to barter parts. All the parts changed unsuccessful heretofore has just been a waste of money and nothing has been accomplished.
I've premeditated the wiring diagram and see the thermostat only has two wires going to IT. When the thermoregulator calls for wake, those 2 wires are connected. When information technology's not, those wire are disconnected. Until you screw wherefore the furnace is abruptly cycling, the reason for the breakers tripping is a substitute symptom of the real problem. A bad blower motor could not possibly cause the furnace to short oscillation.
I would disconnect the thermoregulator and use a jumper to run off the furnace for a mate of minutes. Then take off the jumper and see what happens. The furnace should non reignite again. What we need to know is if the thermostat is causation the furnace to unforesightful cycle. The OP expressed the furnace reignited when it was squatty cycling. If that's the case, the thermostat is the cause of the trouble. If only the cetacean mammal is short cycling, the problem is probably the "relay."
"RELAY" description from the furnace extremity: wrote:
This component is usually referred to as a clock time stay relay. The very relay is used on the 7900, 8500 and 8900 series furnaces.
FUNCTION - The electrical relay has one primary function.
-to purging the plenum of heat and the chamber of any unburnt gases after each warming cycle.
OPERATION - The centrifugal emf path of relay is normally unsettled. There should e'er Be voltage from the circuit breaker to the electrical relay final of the circle breakers. There should always be continuity between the thermostat terminus link and ground terminal connection or the relay.
Only if the thermostat contacts are closed is voltage supplied to the thermostat terminus of the relay. This voltage heats a coil in the relay body. In approximately 20 seconds this hot gyre causes a bimetal disc to close. Emf now passes through and through the relay and on to the motor, which in turn should allow the furnace to ignite and start a heating rhythm.
When a heating cycle is all-or-none, the contacts of the thermostat open and voltage ceases to the heater coil of the electrical relay. In approximately 45 - 90 seconds, the heater ringlet cools down, the bi-metal disc opens and voltage ceases to the motorial as healthy.
Don. I have been pondering the same thing. I can understand that excessive current draw of blower motorial would turn on the circuit breakers. But I don't understand why that would cause the furnace to cycle on and off like it does before the breaker is tripped.
I like your suggestion of trying to by-come about the thermostat and see if the trouble continues.
Thanks for the insight.
Carl
DFord wrote:
So far, I've seen no indication that anyone has any approximation of why the furnace is small cycling when IT should be off. I've given a suggested procedure to begin troubleshooting only everyone just wants to swap parts. Wholly the parts changed out so far has fair-minded been a waste of money and nothing has been accomplished.
I've studied the wiring diagram and see the thermostat only has two wires passing to it. When the thermostat calls for heat, those 2 wires are related to. When it's not, those wire are disconnected. Until you roll in the hay wherefore the furnace is short cycling, the reason for the circuit breaker swinging is a secondary symptom of the current problem. A bad cetacean motive could not possibly cause the furnace to short cycle.
I would disconnect the thermoregulator and use a jumper to run the furnace for few proceedings. And so remove the jumper and see what happens. The furnace should non reignite once more. What we need to have it off is if the thermostat is causing the furnace to short cycle. The OP expressed the furnace reignited when it was short cycling. If that's the case, the thermostat is the cause of the problem. If only the cetacean mammal is short cycling, the problem is in all probability the "relay."
"Electrical relay" description from the furnace manual: wrote:
This component is unremarkably referred to as a time stay electrical relay. The unvarying relay is used on the 7900, 8500 and 8900 series furnaces.
FUNCTION - The relay has one primary function.
-to purging the plenum of heat and the chamber of whatever unburnt gases after each heating cycle.
OPERATION - The motor voltage path of relay is ordinarily open. There should ever be potential dro from the breaker to the electrical relay terminal of the breaker. There should always be continuity between the thermostat terminal connection and ground pole connection or the electrical relay.
Only the thermostat contacts are closed is potential dro supplied to the thermostat terminal of the relay. This voltage heats a coil in the relay body. In approximately 20 seconds this heated gyrate causes a metal disc to imminent. Emf instantly passes through the relay and along to the motive, which in turn should allow the furnace to heat and start a heating pedal.
When a heating hertz is complete, the contacts of the thermostat open and voltage ceases to the warmer loop of the relay. In approximately 45 - 90 seconds, the heater coil cools dejected, the bi-metal disc opens and electric potential ceases to the motor besides.
Simple. IF the motor is defective(IT IS in this pillow slip), the motor when IT starts to draw likewise many amps will overheat and slow down. That causes 2 things. 1. The sail switch will probably open and keep out the burner down. 2. The slower speed causes the burner case to also overheat and may cause the Limit switch to then trip. You can argue complete you want about the parts replaced. Therein case Entirely the apt parts have been replaced and the only set off left is the motor which is the ONLY part that volition grounds the CB to trip without a related short. As with what Chris stated---Thermostats Ne'er and rarely cause operational problems. ALL they do is open and close 2 wires to the furnace, cypher else. Doug
Chris Bryant wrote:
Y'all can talk about the thermoregulator as very much like you want, merely I could replace information technology with a International Morse code paint and key the unabridged OED and non trip that breaker. This furnace is not an air conditioner. Short cycling cannot and will not cause excessive current haul- certainly not (at 15 amps) nearly double the rated draw (8 amps).
When you have a system that does not work, and you know there is a fault, you mess that blame in front anything else. Directly I wouldn't do anything before actually measurement the current draw of the motor, but there really is non that much more that it could be.
We have a difference of opinion, but I preceptor't think an overdraw by the motor is causing the furnace to cycles/second. But I give notice envision the motor overheating by continuous cycling, especially in a furnace with the burner on. Afterwards that all types of things could happen. Peace!
* This post was edited 03/02/16 11:59am by bid_time *
bid_time wrote:
Chris Bryant wrote:
Y'all tin talk of the thermoregulator as much as you want, but I could put back it with a Morse code key and key the unabridged Oxford West Germanic Dictionary and non trip that breaker. This furnace is non an air conditioner. Short cycling cannot and will non stimulate excessive current draw out- for sure not (at 15 amps) nearly double the rated imbibe (8 amps).
When you have a system that does not work, and you know there is a fault, you fix that fault before anything else. Now I wouldn't do anything before actually measuring the current draw of the causative, but in that location really is not that much more that information technology could be.
You know Chris, I respect your legal opinion a great deal. Simply there is no phone to be snarky with the unabridged dictionary thing.
We have a difference of persuasion, but I don't think an overdraw by the motor is causing the furnace to cycle. Only I can envision the efferent overheating by continuous cycling, especially in a furnace with the burner along. Afterwards that all types of things could happen. Peace!
Now, Directly. No scrap. I apprize the thoughts and information for each of you. Individual months ago, I purchased a new thermostat so plan to set up that in the next day or two and we will see what happens after that.
Again, Mahalo for the thoughts and thought's.
Carl
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OregonTravelers wrote:
Still having a trouble with the furnace. The circuit board was replaced previously and I yesterday, I replaced the thermostat, but the furnace silent cycles on and off so trips the circuit ledgeman.
Now what?
Eddie
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Most in all likelihood totally of your furnace problems will disappear
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trailrider wrote:
REPLACE THE MOTOR!!!
Most likely all of your furnace problems will disappear
OK, that is the incoming step. Simply I still don't understand how a weak operating room bad blower motor testament cause the furnace to finish the heat cycle, turn off and then immediately start a second cycle including clearing the furnace, ignition, heat, heat off, and finally the rooter stopping. So nearly immediately starting the sequence again. Doing this three or four times and then ultimately tripping the 12 V electric circuit breaker.
If it was me, I'd want to diagnose the condition of the motor, even learned it was the cause of the trouble. You may likewise bear a worn circuit circuit breaker or an additive issue with another part of the furnace. A meter is the puppet to use for accomplishing that.
If your burner does non work the right way the firing/flare sensing electrode bequeath not keep flame going. So I suggest once more remove valve assembly and check condition of burner and firing electrode. Replace the electrode with the elan that has wire coming out instead of plug-in terminal that has a tendency to corrode & make poor connexion. You already have Atwood part amoun.
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There are more ways a bad motor can cause cycling- to boot to what Doug pointed out, a 15 amp draw will pull the voltage down, and can easily pull IT down off the beaten track enough that the sentence holdup relay wish disengage, as well Eastern Samoa the electronics dropping out.
We have a go at it that the motor has problems- a quick curb of the underway draw would verify that. Why throw parts at a furnace before you fix the main problem?
Mahalo
Carl
Chris Bryant wrote:
At the risk of....
There are many ways a inferior motor can cause cycling- in addition to what Doug pointed out, a 15 A draw will pull the voltage down, and can easily twist information technology down far adequate that the fourth dimension delay relay leave disengage, likewise A the electronics dropping out.
We know that the drive has problems- a quick check of the ongoing sop up would verify that. Why throw parts at a furnace earlier you cook the main problem?
OK Chris. The dead horse cavalry has been whipped. Finally had the blower motor checked. The motor draws 7 amps. Exactly what it is rated to draw. Furnace still cycling on and off.
Several folks have advisable that the cetacean mammal motor might be the cause of our furnace job. Had the drive checked and the motor draws 7 amps. Exactly what it is rated at.
So now the shrill limit switch has been checkered, the get on has been replaced, the thermostat has been replaced and the motor has been checked. Complete items deemed to be workings as they should. The furnace nonmoving cycles off and on.
Suggestions?
Carl
OregonTravelers wrote:
Okeh Chris. The dead horse has been whipped. Finally had the blower motive checked. The efferent draws 7 amps. Exactly what it is rated to draw. Furnace tranquillize cycling off and on.
Very well- come after along. If IT is drawing off 7 amps, and the 15 ampere breaker is tripping, the breaker is bad- likely newspaper clipping voltage through IT. Substitute it.
This is why you test things, preferably than guess and throw parts.
On edit- you don't even have to buy a theatrical role to check this- just pull the leads off the surf and hook a 15 adenylic acid blade priming in place- the connectors will fit fine.
* This Wiley Post was emended 03/18/16 08:55am by Chris Bryant *
Chris Bryant wrote:
OregonTravelers wrote:
OK Chris. The barren buck has been whipped. Finally had the cetacean motor checked. The drive draws 7 amps. Exactly what IT is rated to standoff. Furnace still cycling on and off.
OK- be along. If it is draft 7 amps, and the 15 ampere breaker is tripping, the breaker is bad- likely cutting voltage through it. Supervene upon IT.
This is wherefore you examine things, kinda than guess and throw parts.
On edit- you don't even have to buy a part to check this- just force the leads off the breaker and hook a 15 ampere brand combine in station- the connectors will equip fine.
OK, but please explain to me how the breaker causes the furnace to cycle on and off? The furnace starts, heats to the temperature on the thermostat, then furnace shut of and the fan continues to run for a short spell, then everything stops. After a a couple of seconds the fan starts, then the furnace starts and runs for a a couple of seconds. Then the furnace shuts down, the fan runs for a couple of more seconds then everything turns off. And then the motorbike starts concluded again. This cycling happens three or four times and then the circuit breaker trips.
Don't understand how the racing circuit breaker would cause this.
Explicate please.
The different return is that the wires are soldered on to the breaker.
Carl
OregonTravelers wrote:
Chris Bryant wrote:
OregonTravelers wrote:
OK Chris. The dead horse has been whipped. Finally had the blower motor checked. The motor draws 7 amps. Exactly what it is rated to draw. Furnace still cycling happening and off.
OK- follow along. If it is drawing 7 amps, and the 15 amp breaker is tripping, the breaker is bad- likely cutting voltage through it. Replace it.
This is wherefore you test things, rather than guess and project parts.
Along edit- you don't even have to buy a part to check this- just pull the leads off the breaker and hook a 15 amp blade fuse in place- the connectors wish fit fine.
All right, but delight explain to me how the circuit breaker causes the furnace to cycle on and off? The furnace starts, heats to the temperature on the thermostat, then furnace shut of and the lover continues to run for a short patc, and then everything stops. After a few seconds the devotee starts, past the furnace starts and runs for few seconds. Then the furnace shuts downbound, the fan runs for a few more seconds then everything turns inactive. Then the cycle starts all over again. This cycling happens trey or four times and then the circuit breaker trips.
Don't understand how the circuit breaker would cause this.
Explain delight.
The other issue is that the wires are soldered happening to the circuit breaker.
Carl
Because the breaker is defective, the voltage is hand-hewn going finished IT- it is a high resistance racing circuit. Once you take less than optimal voltage feeding the system, all kinds of things happen- like the time hold relay acting funky.
Now it could be the clip postponement relay itself- why I evoke replacing the breaker with a fuse.
Still, if the breaker is soldered in the system, it has been to a great extent modified, every bit this was never through with at the mill. In this instance, all bets are off.
At once it could be the clock delay relay itself- wherefore I suggest replacing the breaker with a fuse.
However, if the breaker is soldered in the system, it has been heavily modified, as this was never done at the factory. Therein case, all bets are off.
Chris
You may be correct approximately the lame breaker, but I will have to take exception you active soldering ne'er being done at the factory. I purchased this passenger vehicle new in 2005, The only soldering that has been finished on the circuit breaker was done to repair a wire solder that had worked loose because of a poor bonding Book of Job at the manufactory. In addition there are approximately 25 circuit breakers ranging from 7 amps to 15 amps connected the panel in a compartment in the coach. ALL of the wires are soldered to the various electric circuit breakers.
OregonTravelers wrote:
Chris
You may cost correct well-nig the weak breaker, but I will take over to challenge you about soldering ne'er existence through at the mill. I purchased this coach unweathered in 2005, The only soldering that has been through with happening the circuit breaker was done to repair a wire solder that had worked loose because of a poor soldering chore at the factory. In addition there are approximately 25 circuit breakers ranging from 7 amps to 15 amps on the panel in a compartment in the coach. ALL of the wires are soldered to the various circuit surf.
I'm not talking some the bus- I'm talking about the furnace. I've never been talk about the coach. The furnace has a circle circuit breaker in it.THAT is what I have e'er been talking about. That circuit breaker should never embody soldered, if it was bad, information technology should be replaced.
If you are saying the coach breakers is tripping, you have a short in the coach wiring.
DFord wrote:
OregonTravelers, I given you various suggestions to test and troubleshoot and never detected you cared to follow any of them. Or else you chose to drop more than parts at information technology. You're on your own.
Don.
On 3/2/16 you suggested the thermoregulator had two wires going to that. My thermostat has five wires going to it. You suggested using a jumper to run the furnace.
Rather than using a pinafore I chose to replace the thermostat entirely with a new one that I already had. That did not solve the problem. The furnace still cycles on and unsatisfactory.
In my second post elaborated the cognitive process of the time delay relay that controls the fan. Have you been able-bodied to locate the electrical relay and coif any tests on it?
"RELAY" description from the furnace manual wrote:
This ingredient is commonly referred to as a time delay relay. The same electrical relay is put-upon on the 7900, 8500 and 8900 series furnaces.
Occasion - The electrical relay has one primary quill function.
-to purge the plenum of heat and the bedroom of any unburnt gases after each heating cycle.
OPERATION - The motorial potential difference path of relay is usually open. In that respect should always be voltage from the circuit breaker to the relay closing of the racing circuit surf. At that place should always be continuity between the thermostat terminal connection and ground terminal connection or the electrical relay.
Only when when the thermostat contacts are closed is voltage supplied to the thermoregulator terminal of the relay. This voltage heats a roll in the relay body. In approximately 20 seconds this heated hand-build causes a bimetal disc to close. Voltage now passes through the electrical relay and connected to the motor, which in turn should allow the furnace to ignite and showtime a heating cycle.
When a heating system cycle is complete, the contacts of the thermostat open and potential difference ceases to the heater coil of the electrical relay. In some 45 - 90 seconds, the warmer coil cools down, the bi-auriferous disc opens and voltage ceases to the motorial as well.
Atwood Rv Furnace Relay That Shuts Off Fan When a Light Off Fails?
Source: https://forums.trailerlife.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28775506/print/true.cfm
